The NUTRITIOUS GARDEN . ORG is a "Not - for - Profit" Organization. We Teach You to Have GOOD HEALTH from Choosing GOOD FOOD (Natural NUTRITION ). And, We Show You HOW To GROW All of It !

  Very  Useful  Information  From  . . .

      BARB'S  NURSERY  -and-  The  Grow4Nutrition  Test  Gardens   (Wholly Owned / Managed  by  Buy Now Idaho, Inc.)

     Carefully  Review  This     G E N E R A L       P L A N T I N G       G U I D E  

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SOUTHWEST  IDAHO --  USDA  CLIMATE  REGIONS  -and-  Growing Area - General Guidelines

>  USDA  ZONE  7 b  --  Sunnyslope  (Homedale North),  Apple Valley  (Nyssa East),  Fruitland  (I84  to  Payette).   Minimum  Winter  Temps.  + 5° F.  to  + 10° F.   Winter Daily Temperature Range from  0700 (7 am)  to 1500 (3 pm) :  Daily Range = 15° F.  Average. 

>  USDA  ZONE  7 a  --  Snake  River  Flood  Plain -  CJ Strike  to  Ontario, Oregon.  Minimum  Winter  Temps.  (Zero)  0° F.  to  + 5° F.   Winter Daily Temperature Range from  0700 (7 am)  to 1500  (3.pm) :  Daily Range = 15° F.  Average.

>  USDA  ZONE  6 b  --  Boise  River  Flood  Plain  (Below Boise)  -and-  Lower  Payette  River  Flood  Plain  (Below Emmett).  Minimum  Winter  Temps.  -- 5° F.  to  (Zero)  0° F.   Winter Daily Temperature Range from  0700 (7 am)  to 1500  (3 pm) :  Daily Range = 20° F.  Average.

>  USDA  ZONE  6 a  --  Snake  River  Flood  Plain  (1000 Springs to Grandview) and  Lower Elevations --   Lake  Lowell  to  Melba to Mountain  Home.   Minimum  Winter  Temps.  -- 10° F.  to  -- 5° F.   Winter Daily Temperature Range from  0700 (7 am)  to 1500  (3 pm) :  Daily Range = 20° F.  Average.

>  USDA  ZONE  5 b  --  Mid-Elevations - Lower  "Treasure Valley".   Minimum  Winter  Temps.       .   -- 15° F.  to  -- 10° F.   Winter Daily Temperature Range from  0700 (7 am)  to 1500  (3 pm) :  Daily Range = 20° F.  Average.

>  USDA  ZONE  5 a  --  Mid  and  Higher  Elevations - Melba  and  Kuna  to  Mtn. Home AFB  to  Prairie.  Minimum  Winter  Temps.   -- 20° F.  to  -- 15° F.   Winter Daily Temperature Range from  0700 (7 am)  to 1500  (3 pm) :  Daily Range = 25° F.  Average.

>  USDA  ZONE  4 b  --  Specifically,  ALL  Elevations  of  Over  4,000 Feet, MSL.  Minimum  Winter  Temps.  -- 25° F.  to  -- 20° F.   Winter Daily Temperature Range from  0700 (7 am)  to 1500  (3 pm) :  Daily Range = 25° F.  Average.

>  USDA  ZONE  4 a  --  Specifically,  ALL  Elevations  of  Over  4,800 Feet, MSL.   Minimum  Winter  Temps.   -- 30° F.  to  -- 25° F.   Winter Daily Temperature Range from  0700 (7 am)  to 1500  (3 pm)   Daily Range = 30° F.  Average.

>  USDA  ZONE  3 b  --  Exclusively,  ALL  Elevations  of  Over  5,600 Feet, MSL.   Minimum  Winter  Temps.   -- 35° F.  to  -- 30° F.   Winter Daily Temperature Range from  0700 (7 am)  to 1500  (3 pm) :  Daily Range = 35° F.  Average.

>  Note:  Our Nursery is Located in  USDA  ZONE  5 a.  Every Specimen that we Raise and Sell -  is  Winter Hardy to (At Least)  USDA  Zone  5 a.  Many  are  Hardy  to  USDA  Zone  4 b  (Or  Better).

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>  SPECIAL  NOTES :   

EVERY ONE of  Our Plant Specimens are Strictly "Nursery Grown" Stock. (Our  Nursery). These Plants are "Rooted" from "Cuttings" (i.e., Clones) which means that they are Genetically Identical to their Parent Plant.  Therefore, You Will Never Get OddBall "Throwbacks" -  i.e., Inbred, Sickly Runts  which are very susceptable to diseases and insect damage.  These "Throwbacks" will Never develop into Robust and Healthy Plants.   

EVERY PLANT that we sell is Certified by a Registered Master Nurseryman.  You can be confident of  receiving very Healthy, Strong, Energetic Plants with Well Developed Root systems.  These Plants will  Grow into Attractive and Durable Adults, and will provide a long and productive life.  When You Buy ANY Plant from us, your new Pot will contain a generous amount of  Michorrizae (Good Fungii), Microbacter (Microbial Animals - Similar to Good bacteria), Good Nematodes, and Earthworms.  Please . . . Carefully Keep this Material on the Roots, moving the Entire Pot Contents into the New Planting Hole.

IMPORTANT:  For Their FIRST WINTER,  Each Plant Should Be Protected (Sheltered) with the Addition of a Large, Dense, uniformly Layered Mulch Cover which is then "Wind Wrapped" with Geo-Tex (black and porous) and well tied down.  Do this about October 15th.

We Do Ask that You Follow the Steps that we "Lay Out" for You, so that your Plants will thrive, and that they will Enjoy a Long and Healthy Life.

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>  WATERING  GUIDELINES

You can Help your New Plants to Thrive,  -OR-  You  can  KILL  Them --  With  Water.  Here  are  FIVE  Important Facts to Remember.  1.)_> More Plants are Killed -OR-  Ruined by Over-Watering, more than from Any Other Cause.  2.)_> Good Soil Porosity is a Really Big Factor here. (Use Silica Sand at  25-30%).  3.)_> Never, never, Ever, Ever Allow ANY Water Spray (From Sprinklers, Hose Nozzles, Splash, Splatter, etc.)  to Touch ANY of the plant's Leaves.  Even a misting rain is a problem.  Fungus infections will develop immediately after the "Wetting".  All of Our Berry Bushes have a clear plastic "Rain Top Cover".  4.)_> ALWAYS  Remember -  your Plant's Roots  -AND-  the ("Below Surface") Soil Biota (Permanent, Living Micro-Organisms) MUST HAVE OXYGEN to Survive.  If you Water Soak your plants Today, Wait a Minimum of 3 Days (72 hours) before watering Again.  5.)_> Try to calculate your water delivery so that you achieve about a 1" Rainfall Equivalent.  Measure this  with a Tuna Fish can.  6.)_> For the simplest and most reliable watering system (method) that we have found, we use 3/4" I.D. White PVC pipe with 3/32" holes drilled at 6" intervals (Inline or Stagger-ed is OK).  If you decide to use "Drip Line Emitters", remember that you live in Idaho. Our water has A LOT of dissolved minerals in suspension. A "2 GPH" Drip Emitter will give you 2 GPH for a week or two. The tiny hole then begins to "plug up" with deposited minerals.  In 2 weeks you will get 1 GPH volume. In a month or so, it will be about 0.5 GPH.

>  PLANTING  HOLE  and  BACKFILL  MIX

Our "Potting Soil", Planting Hole, and "Backfill" Mix Never Changes.  We always mix our own - as follows:   > 25 - 30% Silica Sand, 30+% Humus (Finished Compost), 10% Hardwood Bark (NO WOOD), and Finally, The Balance is from our Wonderful ! Idaho Clay Soil; (Which has Lots of Valuable Micro-Nutrients.)  Make SURE that you  MIX  IT  Thoroughly.  And - Add  NO  FERTILIZER ! !

>  WIND  BRACING  and  WINTER  PROTECTION

Wind is Always the Big Enemy for Each of Your Plants.  We Live on a Very Windy ridgeline 2 miles North of the Snake River.  Our windmill generators run about 95 hours out of 100.  So Plant Wind-Shielding is a Top Priority with us.  The Stress on ANY Plant's "Trunk Base" - From the Wind (At Any Speed Over 10  MPH) When the Plant has Mature Foliage - Is Enormous. Staking and Tying Each and Every Plant is Mandatory.  We use "Soft Braided" Poly-Pro Rope ( 1/4", 5/16", or 3/8" Dia. ) and Steel Ag Fence Posts (from 48" to 72" Tall - Driven  12 - 24" Deep, Upwind 3 Feet) to Secure Each Bush or Tree.  Our Plants are Grateful for the Help ! 

>  PRUNING  and  SHAPING

Please,  Do  Not  Believe  All of the rubbish you will hear about  Pruning. Just Follow Four Simple Rules.  1.)_> Never  Remove  more than  25% of the previous year's LIVE growth, in any one year.  2.)_> Cut Out  ALL of the Dead Twigs and Dead Limb extensions.  3.)_> Shorten All Limbs and the "Central Leader" with  CAREFUL  Attention  to Overall Shape and Uniformity.  4.)_> Cut off All "Bottom Growers" (Twigs attached to the Under-Side of a Limb.  And  5.)_> Keep the Area around the "Central Leader" (Trunk)  Clear of small twigs and New (Crowded together) side branches for a  1 to 2 Foot Diameter Cylinder.  (EXCEPTION: ALL HedgeRow and "WindBreak" Bushes / Trees Should Be Filled In ... Let it Get Cluttered Inside). That's it.  Go for it!

>  Special Note:  Apple Fruit Trees  vs.  Junipers, Cedars, and Thuga sinensis (aka Arbore' Vita)

IF  You  Already  Have  Apple  Fruit  Trees  -or-  Are  Planning  to  Have  One  or  More . . .  You  Must  NOT  HAVE  ANY  of  the  "Cedar"  genus  on  site -  this Might Also Include Your Neighbors.  The  Reason:  "Fire Blight"  Damage to Pear, Quince Apple, and All Apple Trees (This Includes Crab Apple and Pomegranite;  In Other Words,  ALL  Pome  Fruit  Trees.)  "Fire Blight" runs through a Complete Reproductive Cycle every two (2) years; Cedar (et.al.) to Apple to Cedar to Pear to Cedar to Apple - and on and on - Forever.  If you Break this Reproductive Cycle, "Fire Blight" Simply Disappears.

>  Final Note:  FERTILIZER !  This is Idaho. Our M.G. has Reviewed over 150 Lab Produced "Soil Tests" from the 5 County Area. (These are the 3 Page, 128 Lines of Data, 12 Graphs Soil Test Reports). Our Soil Already has Enough Potassium (K) to Last 20 Years, or more. DO NOT ADD More (K).  Phosphorus (P) is Variable, but Adding a 10% Ratio each year will be Helpful. Add Calcium and (P) with Organic Bone Meal, NOT Fish by-products.  Nitrogen (N) Can Be Added, But Be Careful !  Green Stuff, Tilled in, is Best way to Add (N).

    Copyrighted Material - Cir. 2012 --  The Nutritious Garden . ORG  (www.thenutritiousgarden.org)